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Brightening

Arbutin

whitening-grading-trend
BrighteningMoisturizing
INCI: Arbutin（α-Arbutin / β-Arbutin）
In short · TL;DR
Category
Brightening
Effect
Melanin production suppression. MHLW-approved quasi-drug active ingredient (brightening)
Concentration
Beta-Arbutin: 3-7%. Alpha-Arbutin: 0.5-2%
Effect
Melanin production suppression. MHLW-approved quasi-drug active ingredient (brightening)
Mechanism
Competitive substrate inhibition of tyrosinase. Although a glucoside of hydroquinone, it acts mainly as the intact glucoside directly inhibiting tyrosinase (the notion that it 'works by breaking down to hydroquinone on the skin' is a misconception; the alpha form in particular has a stable glycosidic bond and resists hydrolysis). In in vitro tyrosinase assays, the alpha form shows approximately 10x higher activity than the beta form
Typical concentration
Beta-Arbutin: 3-7%. Alpha-Arbutin: 0.5-2%
Onset
Brightening effect: 8-12 weeks
Cautions
Less irritating than hydroquinone. Photostable (can be used during the day)
Evidence & references
Sugimoto et al. (2004) "Inhibitory effects of alpha-arbutin on melanin synthesis" PubMed
Journal

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3
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This page is reference information and does not guarantee efficacy. Figures vary by test conditions (in vitro / manufacturer / concentration). It does not indicate pharmaceutical efficacy.
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