HOME ／ Ingredients ／ Brightening
Brightening
Arbutin
MoisturizingBrightening
INCI: Arbutin（α-Arbutin / β-Arbutin）
In short · TL;DR
Category
Brightening
Effect
Inhibits melanin production. Quasi-drugs (brightening) are approved per product in Japan; no approved-concentration precedent for arbutin appears in the MHLW active-ingredient list.
Concentration
EU limits (2024/996): arbutin (beta) up to 7% in face cream; alpha-arbutin up to 2% in face cream and 0.5% in body lotion. These are safety limits based on SCCS opinions. Japan's approved quasi-drug concentration is not in the MHLW list, and the source of a 3% lower figure for beta is unconfirmed.
Effect
Inhibits melanin production. Quasi-drugs (brightening) are approved per product in Japan; no approved-concentration precedent for arbutin appears in the MHLW active-ingredient list.
Mechanism
Competitive inhibition of tyrosinase: as a hydroquinone glycoside it binds tyrosinase in competition with tyrosine without being broken down (shown in cultured human melanocytes; Maeda & Fukuda 1996).
Typical concentration
EU limits (2024/996): arbutin (beta) up to 7% in face cream; alpha-arbutin up to 2% in face cream and 0.5% in body lotion. These are safety limits based on SCCS opinions. Japan's approved quasi-drug concentration is not in the MHLW list, and the source of a 3% lower figure for beta is unconfirmed.
Onset
Brightening effect: 8-12 weeks
Cautions
Considered less irritating than hydroquinone. Primary data on photostability are unconfirmed.
Evidence & references
EU 2024/996 (Annex III 377, 378) / SCCS/1550/15 / Maeda & Fukuda 1996 https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/8632348/ / Sugimoto 2004 https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/15056856/ (checked 2026-10-20)
Journal
Related Journal
3This page is reference information and does not guarantee efficacy. Figures vary by test conditions (in vitro / manufacturer / concentration). It does not indicate pharmaceutical efficacy.
← Back to Ingredients